Sewing machine



July 15, 1930.

Filed Dec. 4, 1923 J. P. RITCHIE SEWING MACHINE 8 SheetS-Sheet 1 Illl MINNIE- mulnT I \nvenTor.

domes F Rifchie b fl wz My Anya.

July 15, 1930.

J. P. RITCHIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 4, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Q i \nvenT cn".

domes F? RiTchie July 15, 1930.

J. P. RITCHIE 1,770,862

SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 4, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 Flgi Q a 103 5 3 7 23 am "3 \nvenTor. James P. Rfichie ATTys.

J. P. RITCHIE SEWING MACHINE July 15, 1930.

Filed Dec. 4, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet \nvenTor. James F? R'fi'chie ATTys.

July 15, 1-930.

MM "lllllllfllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll J. P. RITCHIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 4, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 \nvenTor.

James E R iTchie byWWkM Afiys.

J. P. RITCHIE SEWING MACHINE July 15, 1930.

Filed Dec. 4, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet \nv enTor. James F? R'iTchie MMJ M Patented July: 15, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES P. RITCHIE, OF AMHERST, NEW- HAMPSHIRE; ASSIGNOR TO THE REECE BUTTON BIOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE p I I SEWING MACHINE Application filed December 4, 1923. Serial No. 678,418.

. This invention relates to sewing machlnes of that class wh1ch are used for making a line of reinforcing stitching for reinforcing fabric at some point as for instance at the end of a buttonhole or at the end'of the. pocket slit in garments or any other similar place where it is desirable to provide reinforcing stitching. Sewing machines adapted for this purpose are commonly known in the trade as tackers and the reinforcing stitching which is inserted is sometimes referred to as a tack.

Many sewing machines of this -=.class are constructed so that the line of reinforcing stitching which they produce comprises first a series of relatively long stitches which ex tend from one end to the other of the bar or tack to be formed and another series of shorter stitches which extend transversely of the long stitches and overlie the. latter.

The first-named stitches are sometimes referred to as the underlymg stitches or as the long stitches and the second group of stitches are sometimes referred to as the overlying stitchesor as the cross-stitches since they overlie the long stitches and also extend across or transversely thereto.

One of the objects of my present invention is to provide an improved sewing machine of this class whichis constructed so that the operative parts are so located in the frame that theyare readilyaccessible for adjustment or repair.-

Other objects of the invention areto simplify the machine by reducing the number of parts and to provide an improved means for varying the length of the underlying stitches and also varying the number and length of the overlying stitches and otherwise to improve the machine all as will be more fully hereinafter set forth.

In the drawings wherein I have illustrated a selected embodiment of my invention, Fig. 1 is a side view of a sewing machine embodying my invention with the cover plate removed to show the operative parts within the frame;

Fig 2 is an end view;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3-3, Fig.1;

; parts for Fig. 4 is a horizontal section taken on subcam; V

Fig. 9 is a section on theline 9-9, Fig. 1 Fig. 10 is an under side view of the cam for making the long or underlying stitches; ,Fig. 11 is a fragmentary view showing the releasing the clutch atthe end of thestitching: operation and the meansifor positioning the feed cam; Figs.12 and 13 are plan views of the cam 21 for making the long stitches, Fig. 12 showing the cam disengaged from the drive shaft 24 and Fig. 13 showing the cam connected to the cam shaft;

Fig. 14 is a sectional view showing the elbow lever for giving a jogging movement to the work clamp during the formation of the overlying or cross stitches; Fig. 15 is an enlarged section on the line 1515, Fig. 14; v

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary sectional view showing the work clamp disconnected from the cam 22, this being the position of these parts while the long or underlying stitches are being formed;

Fig. 17 1s an enlarged sectlonal view on the line 17, Fig. 4;

Figs. 18 and 19 are fragmentary views showing the'means for adjusting the spacing of the cross or overlying stitches;

F 1g. 20 1s a view illustratlng the tack or reinforcing stitching which is made;'

Fig.f21 is a diagrammatic view showing the arrangement of the stitches. during the formation of the tack;

F1g.'22 1s a perspectlve view of the work clamps;

Figs. 23 and 24 show the operation of the work clamps in closing the buttonhole slit as the work is clamped between them.

Fig. 25 is an end view showing the operation of the clamp-spreading member.

Before describing the machine I will refer to Fig. 20 which shows diagrammatically the character of the reinforcing stitching made 1; 55 Fig. 8 is an under side view of the feed operatively I g is formed with a chamber 4 open at theside 3 either the oveglying stitches or the cross. stitches.

One of the features of the present invention relates to a construction in which theoperative parts are situated so that they are readily accessible for adjustmentor repair. This is provided for by employing a frame 3 which of the frame and in which all the cams and other operative parts are located, said parts being readily accessible through the open side of the frame when the ,cover plate is removed. The frame also is formed with a horizontally-extending arm 5 on which the work is supported and another horizontallyextending arm 6 terminating in' a head 7 in which reciprocates the needle bar 8 carrying the needle 9.

The work 10 in which the reinforcing stitching is to be inserted is retained between clamp members 11 and 12 and the stitches are formed by the co-operation of the needle 9. and an oscillatory shuttle or hook indicated generally at 13 and which may be of any suitable or. usual construction.

The needle may be reciprocated in any usual way and is herein actuated from a horizontal shaft 14 on which isloosely mounted a driving pulley 15 that is adapted to beclutched to the shaft by means of a clutch of any approved construction.

The clutch herein shown is of that familiar type which is located within the pulley 15 and is thrown into operation by a cone member 16 which is carried by a clutch-actuating rod 80 that is slidably mounted in the frame. The clutch is shown in Fig.1 as disengaged and movement of the rod 80 and cone member 16 to the right will throw the clutch into .en-

gagement.

The shuttle.13 is oscillated by means of a horizontally-extending shaft 17 which is op- .eratively connected to the shaft 14 by means of an eccentric 18 on the shaft 1'4, the eccentric arm of which is operatively connected to a crank arm 20 on the shaft 17. Rotary motion of the shaft 14 is, therefore, converted into an oscillatory motion of the shaft17.

These parts for operating the needle and the shuttle may be of an suitable construction and form no part 0 the present invention.

The movement of the rod 80 necessary to throw the clutch into engagement may be accomplished either by pushing on the knob 151 at the end of the rod or through the medium of a starting lever 120 which is pivoted to the frame at 121 and has the upwardly-m? tending arm 129 which engages a collar 122 late 109 pivotedat 111 to a cross bar or bri ge 153 extending across the chamber 4, said latch being adapted to engage a shoulder .110 formed on a collar 154 that is fast to the rod 80. The lateh 109 is acted on by a spring 155 which causes the latch to snag over the shoulderllO when the rod is move into positionto throw the clutch into engagementf.

Suitable means hereinafter described are provided for releasing the latch 109 when the stitching operation is completed and when the latch is released the clutch is disengaged by means of a spring 114 which moves the rod 80 into the position shown in Fig. 1. I

The stitches 1 are formed by giving the work clamps 11 and 12 a reciprocatory motion transversely of the'arm 5 and the overlying stitches 2 are formed by giving the work wclamps 11 and 12 a reciprocatory motion longitudinally of the arm 5 and at the same time giving it a'feeding motion transversely of the arm. 1

The mechanism herein illustrated for giving these reciprocatory movements to the work clamps comprises one cam for producing the underlying stitches, anothercam for producing the cross or overlying stitches and a third cam for giving the work clamp its feeding movement during the formation of the cross stitches. ,7 J The firstof these cams by which the long. stitches 1 are formed is indicated generally at 21, the second cam by which-the cross stitches are formed is indicated at 22 and the feed cam member is indicated at 23.- These cams are all mbunted on a vertically-extending cam shaft 24 which is located in the chamber 4,

said shaft being journalled at its lower end ina bearing 25 and at its upper end in another bearing 26. The cam shaft 24 is driven from the driving shaft 14 through suitable worm or spiral gears 27. The underlyingstitcli cam 21 and the feed cam 23 are both loose on the shaft 24 while the overlyings'titch cam 22 is fast on the cam shaft.

There is a train of operative connections between each of the cams 21, 22 and 23 and the work clamps 11, 12 but since the cam 21 is operating during a portion of the cycle of operations to form the long underlymg stitches while the cams 22 and 23 are operative during the remaining portion of the cycle of operations to produce the short stitches a construction is provided by which when the cam 21 is operating the cams 22 and 23 will be ineffective while when the cams 22 and 23 are operating to'produce the short stitches the cam 21 is ineffective. In the conv 23 is disconnectedfrom the cam shaft 24 and is, therefore, idle and the operative connections between thecam 22 and the work clamps are disrupted so that the rotation of the cam 22, which it will be remembered is fast on the ;.cam shaft, has no effect on the work clamps.

On the other hand when the long stitches have been completed the cam 21 is disconnected from the cam shaft and, therefore, be-

comes idle, the connectionsbetween the work clamps and the cam 22 are established and the cam member 23 is coupledto the cam shaft so that the cam members 22 and 23 become operative.

The cam member 21 is-formed on its under side with a face cam 28' which co-operates with a roll 29 on the endof an arm 30 that is fast on a vertically-extending rock shaft 31, the latter having another arm 32 extending therefrom which is connected by a link 33 to a slotted quadrant arm 34 that is fast on a rock shaft 35, the latter extending in a horizontal. direction parallel to the shuttle actuating shaft 17 and being journalled at its ends in supports 36, 37. The roll 29 is held against the cam face 28 by means of a spring 38 and with this construction the rotation of the cam 28 will rethe long stitches 1.

sult in oscillating the shaft 35. The shaft is connected to the work clamps so that oscil'lati'on of the shaft gives the reciprocato-ry motion to the work clamps necessary to form The lower work clamp 12 is formed at the end of an arm or shank 41. The upper work clamp 11 ismade in two sectionswhichmay be 1 moved toward and from each other for reasons which will be presently described. The two sections of said work clamp are indicated at and 46 respectively. These clamp sections are formed on the ends of arms 47, 48 which are mounted for movement toward and from each other and which are also in the na-,

ture of spring arms, the resiliency of which holds the clamp 11 yielclingly against the workwhile permitting said clamp to be separated from the under clamp 12 when the work is to be inserted-between the clamps or removed therefrom; 'The arm 48 is pivotally mounted at 43 on the upper side 0 a block 44'that extends laterally from and is rigid with the shank 41 of the lower clamp and the arms 47 and 48 are y/ieldingly connected by a spring 50 which tends to hold the two sections 45, 46 of the upper work clamp closed together as shown in Fig. 4.

As 'stated'above the reason for making the upper clam 11 in two separable sections will be hereinafber set forth more fully.

The arni 41 ofv the lower clamp 12 is-c'onnected to the oscillating. shaft 35 through means best illustrated-in Figs. 5 and 6.

The shaft 35 has fast on it an. arm 51 which extends through a trunnion 52 that is ournalled in a block'53 extending through and and intermediate low point-s.

adapted to operate in a slot, 54 formed in the frame arm 5. This block 53 is rigid with a plate 55 which in turn is secured to the arm 41. Withfthis construction the oscillation of the shaft 35 will give a reciprocating movement to the-work clamps transversely of the arm 5. The purpose of the trunnion 52 is to prevent any binding'of the parts during this reciprocating motion due to the fact that the arm 51 moves in the arc of a circle 7 while the plate 55 moves in a straight line. The arm 51-is formed with the slot 58 through which the shaft 17 extends, said slot permitting the necessary oscillation of the arm.

. The cam 28 which gives this reciprocating motion is provided with four high points These four high points'are indicated at 56, 57.and 199 respectively. The two high points '56 have the same riseand give the work clamps the maximum throw; the high point 199 hasa very small rise and gives a very small movement to the work clamps-whilethe high point 57 gives the work clamps a greater, throw than the high point 199 and a less throw than the high point 56. -Fig.' 10 shows the parts in the position they occupy when the machine is brought to rest and at this'time the roll 29 is on the low point between the rises 199 and 157. The cam 28 is turned in the'direction of the arrow Fig. 10, (this being an under side view of the cam) and during one rotation of the cam, therefore, the roll will work clamp sufiicient'so that at the second penetrating thrust the needle will be at the point 6, Fig. 21 thus producing a stitch of medium length. ,WhBIl the roll passes on to the low' point of the cam beyond the high point 57 the work clam returns to its original position so that -t e next penetrating loo thrust of the needle .will be substantially at the point a where thefirst penetrating thrust occurred. This third penetrating thrust, however,-is indicated at '0 in Fig. 21 in order to better distinguish between the position of the successive needle thrusts. As the first high point 56' passes the roll 29 the,. work clamps will be given their full lateral movement and the fourth penetrating thrust of the needle takes place as the roll is on the a high point 56 and will beat the point d.. The next penetrating thrust is" when the roll 29 is on the low points between the two high points 56 and .will be at substantially the point a g, which is substantially the same as the point and then four long stitches 061, de, cf, fg, and

a. As the roll passes over the lowest rise199 the work clamps will begiven a slight movement so that the eighth penetrating thrust of the needle will occur at the point It, thus making a very short stitch. After the roll 29 has passed over the rise 199- and come into the position shown in Fig. 10 on the next low point of the cam the latter. will be brought to rest, the long stitches 1 having been thuscompleted. These long stitches thus comprise relatively short stitches ab, be,

then a very short stitch 972 The purpose of making the first of the underlying stitches 1 a relatively short stitch is so as to avoid the. possibility that the thread will be pulled out from the needle in the formation of this first stitch, as might occur if the first stitch was of maximum length. The purpose of having the last stitch gh of minimum length is to anchor the long stitches in the goods before the cross stitching takes place.

The present construction involves means for adjusting the length ofthe underlying stitches 1 so as to make a bar. of greater or less length. I

The arm 34 to which the link 33 is connected is provided with acurved slot 71 and the end of the link 33 canbe adjusted up or down in said slot and may be held in adjusted position by means of a clamping nut '72. The cam 28 has a fixed contour. Therefore, in each cycle of operations the rock shaft 31 and arm 32 will have the same movement. The extent of movement of the work'clamps, howover, depends on the position of the link 33 in the slot 71 and by adjusting the link upwardlv in the slot the movement of the work clamps ',W1ll be decreased thus producing shorter stitches, while by adjusting the link 33 toward the lower end of the slot the movement of the work clamps will be increased thus producing longer stitches. The length of the-bar, therefore, can be determined by simply adjusting the link in the slot 71.

I have described above the connections from the cam 21 by which the work clamps are given their reciprocating movement for forming the underlyingstitches 1. I will now describe the connections between the work clamps and the cam 22 by which the work clamp is given its reciprocating movement. for forming the cross oroverlying stitches 2 after which I will describe the construction I by which the cam 21 is first rendered operative to form the underlying stitches 1 and after said stitches are formed is rendered inoperative while the cam 22 is rendered operative.

The arm 41 of the work clam'pis provided with a rear extension 59 from which rises a post 60 that is pivotally connected to the arm 61 of a bell crank lever 62, the latter being p *oted at 6'3 and the arm 64 thereof which extends horizontally having a roll 65 thereon adapted to operate in a cam groove 66 formed in the cam 22. The oscillation of the bell crank lever 62 which is derived from the cam groove 66 will thus give the work clamps a reciprocating, motion in the direction of the length of the frame arm 5 or in a direction transversely to that given to the work clamps by the cam28, thereby producing the cross stitches 2.

The swivelled connection between the post 60 and the arm 61 comprises a trunnion block a 67 through which the post extends and which is journalled in another block 68 that is received in ways 69 formed in the arm 61. The block 68 is vertically adjustable in the ways thereby providing means for varying.

the length of the overlying or cross stitches 2 and said block is held in adjusted position by means of a clamping screw 70.

I have stated above that the cam 21 is loose on the shaft 24 while the cam 22 is fast thereon. The present machine involves means for coupling the cam 21 to the shaft 24 when the machine is started and at the same time disconnecting the cam 22 from the elbow lever 62 so that when this condition obtains the.

work clamps will be given their reciprocating movement by the cam 21. After the cam 21 has made one complete-revolution then it is automatically disconnected from the shaft 24 and the elbow lever 62 is automatically member 21' and the shaft 24 is secured by means of a ratchet 7 3 which isfast on the shaft 24 and a spring-pressed pawl 7 4 which is pivoted to the cam member 21 and is adapted to co-opei'ate with the ratchet 73. This pawl is acted on by a spring 75 which yieldingly holds it in engagement with the ratchet.

WVhen the machine is started in operation the pawl has engagement with the ratchet as shown in Figs. 9 and 13, and since the shaft 24 is rotating in the direction of the arrow Fig. 9 the engagement ofthe pawl 74 therewith will rotate the cam 21. When the cam has completed its rotation the pawl 7 4 is automatically disengaged from the ratchet 73 as shown in Fig. 12. This disengagement of the pawl is accomplished by a pawl-releasing dog 76 which is pivoted at 77 to the under side of a head 78 formed at the lower end of a bar or arm 79 that is secured to the clutch-* controlling rod '80.

These parts are so designed that when the clutch 16 is in engagement the dog 76 stands in. the patl. of the tail 81 of the pawl 74 so that when-the cam has made one revolution 'the engagement of the tail 81 with the'dog I the pawl 74 automatically into engagement with the ratchet 73 so that when the machine is started again the cam member 21 will be turned thereby to form the long stitches land when the cam hascompleted one revolution it is automaticallvdisenga'ged as above described. f

The driving connection between the cross- 7 stitch cam 22 and the elbow lever 62 'is rendered operative or inoperative by bringing the roll 65 into and'out of the cam groove 66.

The arm 64 0f the elbow lever on Whichthe roll 65 is mounted is pivoted to the other arm of the lever. asshown'atf82 so-that it can swing in a horizontal direction, this pivotal connection being such that the two arms of the lever are rigid so far. as movement in a 3 vertical plane is concerned;

Means are provided whereby the arm 64 will be withdrawn from engagement with 'the i cam groove-as shown in Fig. 16, so that the cam 22 will be inoperative, at the time that.

I the cam member 21 is coupledto-the shaft 24 and said arm- 64 will be thrown into opera-. tive engagement with the cam 22 as shown in Fig. 4 at the time that the cam 21 is disengaged from the cam shaft 24. I

The arm 64 is pivotally connected to a lever 83 which in turn is pivoted intermediate of its ends to abracket .84 secured to the frame 3. The lower end 85-ofthe lever 83 cooperates with a cam member=86 formed on or carried by the cam member 21. The lever 83 draw the roll 65 from operative engagement with the eam groove 66on the cam 22, said spring serving to maintain the end 85 of said lever in engagement withthe'peripheral. portion of the cam 21. I The parts are so designed that when the end 85 of the lever'83 is engaged by the cam portion 86 as shown in Fig. 9', the arm 64will beheld inthe position shown in Fig. 4 with the roll 65 in the cam groove 66. When, however, the cam member 21 has been turned.

groove 66, while the inner end 90 is to, receive the arm 64 freely. isacted on-by a spring 87 tending .to withsuflicientlyso that the cam 86 has been withdrawn from the end 85 of the lever 83 and said end of the lever is resting against the concentric portion of the cam member 21 as shown in Fig. 13 then the arm 64 .Will be in the position shown in Fig. 16 and the roll 65 s will be withdrawn from the cam groove 66. -In this position of the parts the cam 22 is inoperative and this is the position which the arm 64 has during the operation of the cam 21 in forming the underlying stitches 1. When the. machinehas been brought to rest with the clutch 16 disengaged, the cam mem-' ber 21 is in the position shown in Fig. 9 and the lever 83 is acted on by the cam member 86 so that the roll 65' will be in the cam groove 66. At this time also the dog 76 has been withdrawn from the tail 81 of the lever 7 4 so that the cam 21 is coupled to the cam shaft 24. As soon as the machine is started the movement of the cam member 21 in the direction of the arrow will withdraw the cam 86 from the lower end 85 of the lever 83 thus disengaging the lever 64 from the cam 22 and the latter will then. be inoperatlve while the cam 21 isoperating.

It is, of course, desirable that the work clamps should be so positioned during the formation of the underlying stitches 1 that, said stitches shall be'laid centrally of the overlying stitches andto accomplish this I have provided means whereby when the roll 65 is withdrawn from the cam groove 66 for the forming of the long or underlying stitches, the elbow lever 62 will be brought into a midway position, thus placing the work clamps in their central position with movement longitudinally of relation to their the arm 5.

This is accomplished by atpositioninginember 88 (see Fig. 17) in the extending from the-frame 3 and having a forked end 89 between-the arms of which fork the arm 64 of the elbow lever is received.

The space between the'arms 89 is wider. at

the outer end than at the inner end 90' and the narrower inner end is connected to the wider outer end by the inclined faces 91.

to accommodate the up and down movement of the arm 64 which is given to it by tile cam o a size The partsare so' designed that when the arm 64'is in its operative position shown in.

'90 as seen in Fig. 17, which narrow position is'situated'so that it positions thearm' 64 centrally and thus centrally pqsitions the work clamps for forming the longunderlyorm ofa bracket I The wider outer end of the fork is sufficient ing stitches 1. The inclined faces 91 direct the arni 64 into the narrow portion 90 during the movement of the arm from the position shown in Fig. 4 to that, shown in Fig. 16?

As stated above the device also includes means for moving the work clamps in the direction of the length of the underlying stitches 1 whilethe overlying stitches 2 are being formed. This feeding movement s accomplishedfroni a feed cam 92associated with the cam member 23. This feed cam '92 may be so constructed that it will give the necessary feeding m vementfrom one end to the other of thelong underlying stitches mation of the overlying stitches 2 after which the feed dam will be rendered inoperative. In the present embodiment of the invention I have provided means whereby the feed.cam is thrown out of operation by the movement of flie arm 64 as it withdraws the roll 65 from the cam groove 66. 4 v- I ,The feed cam 92co-operates with a roll 93 carried on an arm 94-that is fast on the rock shaft 31, which, it will be remembered, operates through the arm 32, link 33 and quadrant 34 to oscillate the shaft 35 which gives the work clamps their movement transversely of the' frame arm 5. The shaft 31 is controlled bybdth the cams 92 and 28-and since these roll 93 on the arm cams are operative at different time periods it is important to provide a construction so that neither cam will effect or interfere with the operation 6f the other cam. When the cam 28 is clutched to the cam shaft 24.and is operating to reciprocate the work clamps to form the long underlying stitches 1, the

94 is in the dottedlinetposition p in Fig. 8, that is, it is on the low portion of the cam 92. When in this position the roll 93 is free to move away from the cam 92 when the rock shaft 31 is turned by the roll 29 on the lever 30 passing over one of the high points of the cam 28. When said roll 29 is' on the low ortion of the cam 28 then the.roll 93 will be in engagement with thelow portion of the feed cam- 92. The

feed cam, therefore, does not interfere inany way with theoperation of the cam 28 When the cam28 has been brought to rest after the long underlying stitches 1' are formed the-roll 29 will be on a low ortion of the cam as shown in Fig. 10 and uring the 7 .movement of the feed cam in the direction of shaft 14 the arrowin Fig. 8 the shaft 31 will be gradually turned as the feeding movement proceeds and during this time the roll 29 will be carried away from the low portion of the cam 28. Therefore, whenfeither cam is operating the low portion of the other cam is presented to the corresponding roll and neither cam will interfere with "the operation of the other cam.

The feed cam 92'is actuated by the following means. The cam member 23 which carries the feed cam 92 has pivotally mounted thereon a plurality of spring-pressed feed pawls 97 that are adapted to engage a ratchet member 98 that is loose on the cam shaft 24, said ratchet member having'fine ratchet teeth cut in its periphery. This ratchetmember is connected by a link 99 to the lower endrof a lever 100 which is pivoted at its upper end to the frame as shown at,101. This lever in turn is acted on by a cam 1 02 A spring 103 which is connected at one end to the frame and at the other endtothe ratchet member 98 tends to move the lever 100 toward the cam 102. When the lever is in position to be engaged by the cam 102 then fast on the drive the rotation of the shaft 14 will vibrate said- 1 ever thereby oscillating the ratchet member 98 and through the pawls 97 giving the feed cam member 23 a forward feeding movement;

' This feeding movement occurswhile the cross stitching is'being formed. The feed mecha nism is rendered lnoperative after the over:

, lying stitches 2 havefbeen formed and is held inoperative while the long underlying stitches are formed. v I

The end of the arm 64is provided with an extension 104 carrying an adjustable stop s'crew 105 which is adapted to engage the ever when the arm 64 is withdrawn from the cam 22. When this condition obtains the lever 100 is held entirely out of engagement with the cam 102 and, therefore, the feed mechanism isinop rative. As soon as-the arm 64; of thealeve, 62has been moved into operativeposition shown in Fig. 4 with the roll 65 in the groove 66, then the lever 100 is? released and is allowed to come into engagement with the cam 102 so that the feed cam 92 will beoperated. The feed cam 92, therefore.

- operates simultaneously with the cam 22, and is rendered-inoperative when the cam ceases to function. The feeding movement of the work clamp takes place. therefore, only when the overlying stitches 2 are being formed.

'Th'e feed mechanism just above described is constructed so that the number and spacing of the overlying stitches 2 may be varied independently of the length of the underlying stitches 1. This is done by controlling the amplitude of movement which the cam 102 gives the lever 100,: Bydecreasing such am? plitudepf movement the feed cam92 will have a slower movement and,-therefore, a greater time will elapse between the formation of the first and the last of theoverlying stitches,

and during this longer time a greater number of overlying stltches Wlll be formed. On

,the other hand'if the amplitude of movement of the lever 100 is increased then the feed cam will have its complete movement during a shorter interval of time and fewer'overlying stitches 2 will be formed,'and they will be 19 more Widely spaced from each other.

adjusted in position that it will withdraw the lever 100 entirely from engagement with the cam 102 in which case the lever will'be stationary, or it may beadjustcd so that the lever will rest against the cam throughout its 2:0 entire rotation in which case the leverwill have its maximum amplitude of movement.

If the yoke is adjusted into'someintermedt ate position, as shown in Figs. 18 and 19, it will prevent thelever from following the cam when the low portion of the cam is presented but will hold the lever in position to be en-j gaged by'the high portion of the cam. In such intermediate position, therefore, the lever will ha'vea less amplitude of movement- 80 than its maximum amplitude. By a proper adjustment of the yoke, therefore, the lever may be given any desired amplitude of movefnent from maximum to zero.

Since this lever is cbnnected to the ratchet member 98, it will ,follow that the amplitude of oscillating movement of said ratchet memher will depend upon the adjustment of the yoke 106 and by this means the speed; at which the feed cam 92 is operated can be adjusted in- 4c dependently of the length of the underlying stitches 1 or the length of the overlyin" 'st-1tches2. With this construction, therefore, the number and spacing of the overlying Stitches 2 are adjustable independent of other ad ustments? The bar or tack is completed when the overlying stitches 2 have been formed the full length of the underlying stitches 1 and as this is determined disengaging the clutch-16 thereby stopping the machine.

at 111 and it has a tail piece 112 which 00- operates'with pins 113 carried by the cam member 23, there being one pinfor each of the feed cams 92. These pinsyare so positioned that when the. feeding operation iscompleted one of the pins will rideunder 3a the tail 112 of the latch thereby releasing it tion of the next cam 92 to said roll.

first stitch of the next bar.

, the, feed cam I have I providedv means co rolled by said cam for from the shoulder 110 and permitting the spring 114 to disengage the clutch.

It is important that the feed cam should, always be properly positioned when the ma chine is brought to rest so that the low portion of the cam will be presented to the roll 93 and I have provided for this by forming, on said cam member a plurality of. projections 115, there being one projection for each feed cam 92, and also by providing a hook .memberllG which is carried by a lock 117 that is secured to the arm 79 so that said hook 116 has a movement to the left when the clutch is released. The pins 115 and the hook 116 are so disposed that each time the clutch is released the hook will engage one pin thereby to give the cam member 92 a final turning movement which brings it into the position it should have when t-he long linderlying stitches are being formed. The final movement which is'given' to the cam by the ho k 116 is ill istrated in Fig.'8,'wherein the dotted lines 0 indicate the relative position of the roll 93 and the feed cam when the overlying stitches 2 are completed, the last needle thrust in the formation of the overlying stitches being at the pointz' in Fig. 21, which, it will be noted, is at'the opposite end of the bar from the point a where the first needle thrust is made at the beginning of the seam. hen the clutch 16 is disengaged the movement of .the clutch rod 80 to the left. into the position shown in Fig. 1 will operate through the hook 116- and "the pins 115 to turn the cam member 23 so as to carry the high point of the feed cam 92 out from under the 'roll- 93 and present the low pf:-

so this occurs the spring 38 shifts the work .clamps' back into their initial position ready for the first penerating-thrust of the needle at the point a when the machine is started to form the next succeeding bar. The stopping of the machine, therefore, operates to position the work clamps properly for the When the machine is used for barring buttonholes. it is desirablethat the buttonhole slit should be closed tightly together while the bar is being formed so that the bar whencompleted will have a tendency to hold the 'buttonhole slit closed. 7 If the buttonhole slit should be spread when the bar is formed the tendencyof the bar will be to hold the buttonhole slit in its spread condition. a

In order to secure this end I have provided means for spreading the two sections of the upper work clamp when the work clamps are open to receive the work and for bringing the sections together when they are they engage the "work tends toclose thebut- Q brought into clamping engagement with the tonhole slit. This is' illustrated in Figs. 23 and 24. In Fig. 23 the work 10 is shown as having a buttonhole 189 therein which is to be barred and said figure shows the buttonhole slit slightly spread or opened. .lVhen the work 10 with the buttonhole therein is placed between the open work clamps the sections of the latter-will be spread as shown in 22 and in dotted lines Fig. 25. As the work clamps are closed against the work they are moved together and this movement closes the buttonhole slit. as shown in Fig. 24.

' tions 45,- 46 of the upper work clamp 11 are provided with extensions 175 which are separated slightly from each other and co-operate with a wedge-shaped spreader 17 6 that is carried by an arm 168 secured to the lower end of a rod 177 that is movable vertically in the head 7. The spreader 176 is supported from the arm 168 by'means of a screw 166 which screws into.the spreader and operates in the slot 167 formed in the arm 168. This slot 167 allows the spreader to move with the work clamps when the latter are given their reciprocating movement during the 'formation of the long underlying stitches 1.

The rod 177 is acted on by a spring 178 which tends normally to hold it in its lowered position with the inclined: faces 170 out of engagement with the arms 175 as shown in full lines Fig. 25. The spreader 176 is provided with shoulders 169 that engage the under side of the arms 175 as the spreader is raised thereby to raise the upper work clamp 111 and separate it from the lower clamp 12. During this-upward movement of the spreader the inclined faces 170 engage the inclined edges of thefarm 175 and thus spread the arms from each other, such spreading action continuing until the shoulders 169 are brought against the :under side of the arms.

The upward movement of; the member 176,}

therefore, operates both to spread the sections 45, 46 of the'upper workclamp 111 andalso to separate; said'work clamp as a whole from the lower work clamp 12.

The rod 177 may be raised in' any suitable 'way. I have herein shown for this purpose a lever 179 pivoted to the frame at 17 3 and having a forked end 172 that engagzes a collar 171-on the rod-177. This-lever 1 9 may be side of the chamber.

connected to a treadle so that depressing the treadle will raise the rod or said rod may beraised in any other appropriate way. The raising of the rod, therefore, acts to separate the two clamps 11 and 12 and also to spread the two'sections 45,46 of the upper clamp as above stated. v

When the work has been inserted between the open clamps the upper clamp is lowered onto the work by a downward movement of the rod 17 7 and spreader 17 6, the resiliency of the arms 47, 48 closing the upper clamp 11 onto the work. During such downward.

movementthe clamp sections 45, 46' are held spaced from each other as shown in Figs. 22

and 23 until the upper work clamps rest onthe work, said clamp engagin the work while the sections thereof are still separated. After this occurs further downward movement of the rod 177 and spreader 176 withdraws the spreader from engagement with the inner faces of the arms 175 and allows the spring 50 to close the clamp sections 45 and 46 together. Since this closing move-' ment occurs while they are in contact with the work theresult will be that the work will be crowded together sufliciently to close thebuttonhole slit as shown in Fig. 24.

It will be observed that all the cams and mainoperating parts bf the machine are located in the chamber 4 of the frame, which is always readily accessible by simply opening the cover (not shown) which closes the open This is a decided advantage because these arts are readily accessible for repair or a justment. Moreover by-having all the cams on a single cam shaft, which extends vertically in the frame, a very compact structure is provided.

\Vhile the operation of the machine will be clearly understood from the foregoing yet it may be briefly summarized as follows.

When the machine has been brought to rest at the end of a sewing operation the clutch for the pulley 15 is disengaged, and the loose cam is coupled to the cam shaft 24 through the pawl 74 and ratchet 73 so that as soon as the clutch is thrown into engagement by movement of the rod 80 to the right Fig. 1

the cam 'member 21 will begin to operate to reciprocate the work clamp forformmg the long underlying stitches 1. When the cam 21 has made a complete revolution and the long underlying stitches 1 are completed the tail 81of the pawl73 engages the releasing dog 76 which has been moved into operative position by the engagement of the clutch, this resulting in disconnecting the cam 21 from the -ca m shaft 24.

The cam 21 is brought to rest at the end of one revolution-inthe position shown in Fig. 9 with the cam 86 engaging the lower end of the lever 83. While the ,cam 21 is operat ing the arm 64 of the elbow lever 62 is dis connected from the cam 22 as shown in Fig.

16 so that the rotation of the cam 22 has no effect on the work clamps. When the cam 21 comes to rest, however, in the position shown be limited tot e in F ig, 9 the engagement of the cam portion '86 thereon with the lower end of the lever 83 swings the arm 64 of the elbow lever 62 into position to bring the roll 65 on said arm in the cam groove 66 thus coupling the cam 22 to the work clamps so that during continued rotation of the cam shaft the wor clamps will be operated from the cam 22 instead of from the cam 21, the cam 22 operating to give the work clamp the necessary movement to form the cross or overlying stitches 2. i

The connecting of the rod 64 with the cam 22 also renders operative the mechanism for operating the feed cam member 23 which carries the feed cams 92 so that during the forming of the cross stitchesthe work will be fed slowly from one end to the other of the bar.

, When the cross stitches have been completed the clutch is released. and the machine is brou ht to rest-by one of the pins 113 in the fee cam member 23 engaging the tail 112 of the latch 109 that holds the clutch' en-v gaged, thus releasing the latch from the shoulder 110 and allowing thesprilig 114 to disengage the clutch.

While 'I have illustrated herein a selected embodiment of m invention I do not wish to co'nstructional features shown.

I claim:

' 1. Ina sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, a cam shaft, a cam loose therehas been disconnected from the cam shaft.

on for reciprocating the work-holding means in one direction, a second cam fast thereon for reciprocating the work-holding means in another direction, ogerative connections between each cam an the work-holding erative while the first-named cam is operating and operative after said first-named cam 2. In a sewing machine, the combination with st-itch forming mechanism of workholding means, a cam shaft, a camloose thereon for reciprocating thework-holding means in one direction, asecond cam fast thereon for'reclprocatmg the, work-holding means in another vdirection, operative connections means, means to connect the first-named cam to the cam shaft and then -to disconnect it connections between the second cam and the work-holding means inoperative while the first-named cam is operating and operative after said first-named cam has been disconnected from the camshaft.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means,-a cam shaft, a cam loose on the cam shaft, a second cam fast-on the cam shaft, operative connections between the firstnamed cam and the work-holding means for reciprocating the work-holding means in, one direction to form underlying stitches, operative connections between the second cam and work-holding means to reciprocate the latter in a direction at right angles to the first-named direction thereby to form overlying stitches, means for connecting the firstnamed cam to the cam shaft and then automatically disconnecting it therefrom, and means to render the operative connections be tween the second-named cam and the workholding means inoperative while the firstnamed cam is operating and operative after the first named cam has ceased to function.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism. of workholding means, a camshaft, two cams thereon, one of which has a cam groove, operative connections between each cam and the workholding' means, the connections betweenv the grooved cam and said work-holding means including a lever having a roll operating in said groove, means to render the other cam operatlve durmg a predetermined sewing opceases to function;

5. In a sewing machine, the combination K with stitch-forming mechanism, of workmeans, means to connect the first-named cam holding means, a cam for reciprocating the work-holding means inone direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam havin a groove for reciprocating the work-holding means;in another direction to form overly-Y ing stitches, operative connections between the groovedcam and the work-holding means including aelever having a roll to operate in the cam groove, means to render the firstnamed cam inoperative" after a predetermined sewing operationhas been performed, and means controlled by-said first-named, cam: to withdraw said roll from the;cam groove. of the second cam while the first-named cam is operating and to restoresaid roll in said.

roove when said first-namedcamceases to between. each cam and the work-holding function, whereby comes operative. v

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, two cams for reciprocating the work-holding means, one of which recipthe second cam then berocates said work-holding means in one dimotion and the other of which reciprocates said work-holding-means in another direction, a clutch by which the machine is operated, means associated with the clutch to render one of the cam inoperative after a predetermined sewing operation, and'means controlled by the last-named cam to render the other cam inoperative while said last-named cam is operating and operative when said last-named cam ceases to function. 7; In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,= of workholding means, a camshaft, a cam loose thereon, a second cam fast thereon, operative cohnect-ions between each cam and the workholding means, a clutch by which the machine is actuated, means for coupling thelo'os'e' cam to the cam shaft, means associated with the clutch to disconnect said cam from the cam shaft after a predetermined sewing operation,

and means controlled by said loose cam to render the connections between the other cain and the work-holding means inoperative while the doose cam, is clutched to theshaft and e to render said connections erative when said loose cam is disconnected rom the cam shaft.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, a cam shaft, a cam loose thereon for moving the work-holding means in one direction, ,a second cam fast thereon for moving the work-holding means in another direction,- a third cam also loose thereon for giving feeding movement to the work-holding meanspmearis to connect the first-named cam to the cam shaft, and

then to disconnect it after a predetermined sewing operation, means controlled by said first-mentioned cam to render thesecond and third cams inoperative while the first-mentioned cam is operating and to render said second and third cams operative again when the first-mentioned .cam ceases to function.

9. In a sewing machine for forming a group of underlying stitches and a groupof overlying stitches which overlie and extend transversely of the underlying stitches, the combination with stitclf-forming mechanism, of work-holding means, a cldtch by which the machine is operated, a latch to hold the;

clutch in engagement, a rotary cam for reciprocating the work holder to form the underlying stitches, a second rotary cam to reciprocate the work holder to form the overlying stitches, both of said cams rotating about the same axis, a feed cam to give the work a feeding movement while the o rlying stitches are being formed, means td-ender the first-named cam operative for f rming the underlying stitches, and then to render it inoperat ve, means controlled by said firstnamed cam to render the other two cams operative when the first-named cam ceases to function, and means operated by the feed cam to trip the latch when the overlying stitches are completed, whereby the clutch becomes disengaged.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with a hollow frame having a horizontallyextending work-supporting arm and a second horizontal arm for supporting the needle, a needle bar reciprocating in saidsecond arm, work clamps carried by the work-supporting arm, a vertically-arranged cam shaft in thehollow frame, two cams thereon, one for moving the work clamp in one direction and the other for moving the work clamp in another direction, and means for rendering each caminoperative while the other cam s operating.

11. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of two work clamps between whichth'e work isheld, one

work clamp comprising two sections which are movable toward and from each other, a

spring tend'ng to move said sections toward each other, nd means for separating said sections positively when the work clampsare opened toreceive the work. a

'12. In a sewing machine for barring butt-onholes, the combination with stitch-form- .ing mechanism to form a bar at the end of a buttonhole, of work clamps for holding the work, and a spring deviceto cause the clamps 4 to close the buttonhole slit when the clamps are closed onto the work.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, of two work clamps between which the work is held, one clamp being madein two sections movable toward and from each other, and a clamp-opening member to separate the clamps to receive the work, said member being constructed to spread the sections of .the sectional clamp ",while the clamp is opened, and a spring to inove the clamp sections toward each other when the clamps are closed.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism. of two work clamps between which the work is held, one

being made in two sections movable toward and from eacli'other, a wedge device forholding means in another direction for forming overlying stitches, said cams rotating about the same axis, a feed cam to give the worka feeding movement d'uring'the formation of the overlying stitches, and means to vary the rate of said feedin -movement. 16. In a sewing machine, t e combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, a rotary cam member' for giving movement to the work-holding means thereby to form underlying stitches, a second rotary cam member for moving said work holding means in another direction for forming overlying stitches, said cams rotating g1ve the work a feeding movement during the formation of the overlying stitches, and

means to vary the rate at which said feed cam operates relative to that of the stitch-forming mechanism, all said cams rotating about a common axis. a

18. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, a cam member for giving movement to the work-holding means thereby to form unde." lying stitches. a second cam member for moving said work-holding means inanother direction for forming overlying stitches, a feed cam to give the wcrk a feeding movementduring-the formation of the overlying stitches,and an oscillatory member having a pa'wl-and-ratchet connection with I said feed cam to operate the latter, said cams all having a coaxial arrangement.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of work-'1 holding means, a rotary cam member for ii in another direction toform a group of-overg ving movement to the work-holding means thereby to form underlying stitches, a second rotary cam member for moving said workholding means in another direction for forming overlying stitches, a rotary feed cam to give the work a feeding mo vement during the formation of the overlying stitches, an oscillatory member having a pawl-and-ratchet" connection with said feedcam tooperate the latter, and means to vary the amplitude of oscillation'of saidmember, .all said cams rotating about a common axis.

' 20. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitchEforming mechanism, amain shaft from whichthe in one direction to form underlying titches, k-hold,

a second rotary cam to move the W0 ing means in another direction to form over-,

lying stitches, said cams rotating about a common axis,'a feed cam for giving a feeding movement to the work-holding means v q While the overlying stitches are being formed, an oscillatory member operated by the main shaft to operate the feed cam, and means to vary the amplitude of oscillation of said oscillatory member.

21. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism constructed to form a group of underlying stitches and a second group of overlying stitches which extend transversely to the underlying stitches, a main shaft from which the stitch-forming mechanism is operated, a cam on said shaft, a rotary feed cam for giving feeding movement to the Workholding means while the overlying stitches are being formed, an oscillatory member actuated bythe cam on the main shaft for operating the feed cam, and means to varythe amplitude of oscillating movement given to said .member by said cam.

22'. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitc -forming mechanism, of workholding me ns, a cam for reciprocating the work-holding means in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam for reciprocating the work-holding means in another direction to form overlying'stitches, means controlled by the first-named cam to render the second cam inoperative while the first cam with stitch-forming mechanism, of work holding means, -two coaxial rotary cams,

means actuated by one cam to vibrate the vwork-holding means thereby to form a group of relatively lon underlying stitches with the first'stitch' ,0 said group of less length than the others, and means actuated by the other cam to vibrate said work-holding means lying stitchesextending transversely of the underl ing stitches. A

24. n a sewingmachine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming work-holding means in one direction to form a group of relatively-long underlying mechanism, a rotary cam to reciprocate the 1 stitches, said means giving the work-ho] ding means a reciprocation of less amplitude in,

forming the first stitch than in forming sub- I sequent stitches, and a second rotary cam to give the work-holding means a reciprocatlon in another direction to form the overlying stitches both-cams rotating about the same axis. v p 25. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of two work clamps between which the work is held, one clam comprising two, sections which are mova 1e toward and from each other, a combined clamp opener and spreader which opcrates both to give the clamps a positive opening movement and to-positively separate the sections of the sectional clamp.

26. In a sewing machine, the combination clamp comprising two sections which are movable toward and from each other, and a combined clamp opener and spreader which operates bothto give the clamps a positive opening movement and to give the sections of the sectional clamp a positive movement away from each other.

28. In a sewingmachine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of ,two work clamps between which the work is held, one clamp comprising two sections which are movable toward and from each other, a combined clamp opener and spreader whichoping movement and to give the sections of the sectional clamp a movement away from each other, and automatically-operative means other than the combined clamp openerand spreader for moving the clamp sections toward each otheu when the clamps are closed.

29. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of two work clamps between which the work is held, one clamp comprising two sectionswhich are movable toward and from'each other,'a combined clamp opener and spreader which operates both to open the clamps and to separate the sections of the sectional clamp, "spring devices for closing the clamps onto the work and moving the clamp sections toward each other when the clamps are closed. I

30. In asewingmachine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of two work clamps between which the work is held, one

clamp comprising two sections which are movable toward and-from each other, resilient clamp arms by which the'sectional clamp is supported, a combined opener and spreader which by its movement operates both to give the clamps positively an opening movement and to positively separate the sections of the sectional clamp, anda spring for moving the clamp sections toward each other, the resiliency of the clamp-arms functioning to close the clamps. a

31. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle operated in a fixed path, of work-holding means, means including axially-aligned cams to vibrate-the work-holding means in two difl'erent directions, thereby first to form a group of underlying stitches and then to 'forma groupof overlying stitches, means to vary the length of the underlying stitches, and means to vary proportionately the number of'the overlying stitches. v v

32. In a sewing machine, the combination .with stitch-forming mechanism in'cludinga ,vertically-reciprocating needle operating 1n a fixed path, of work-holding means, means including axially-aligned cams to vibrate the work-holding means in two different directions, thereby firstto form a group of underlying stitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, and means for securing a uniform spacing of the overlying stitches regardless of the length of the, underlying stitches.

33; In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle operating in work-holding means a reciprocatory move-' ment in one direction, a second cam device situated co-axially of the first-named cam device for giving the work-holding means a' reciprocatory movement in another direc; tion, means to operate the first-named cam device to give the work-holdlng means a predetermined number of reciprocations and then bring said first-named cam device to rest, and automatic means to render the second cam device operative when the first-. named cam device is brought to rest.

35. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches, and a feed. cam independent from 1 but co-axial with the first cam to give the 

